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As mentioned in the Description, we are gearing to have 25 units available for immediate shipment after we reach the 21 committed buyers. The remaining units will be build and shipped 5 to 6 weeks after closing.
Also please when committing please add type, year and model of car in PayPal. Just so we can provide you with the proper spacer(s). Even better, if you know the dimensions - width and length of the lifting points (best center to center - for frame cars INSIDE FRAME dimension) that could help us verify our data or even complete our lifting points data.

olyar15- I hope you do not mind posting your questions on the discussion board

Question 1 - Is it possible to use an air impact wrench rather than an electric drill?  I figure the impact wrench has more torque and can speed up the raising and lowering of the lift.

No the air or electric impacts may destroy the the lift (never tried them). In actuallity the impacts have much less torque than a regular drill - corded or cordless. You can hold by hand (please use glove when you try) an impacts chuck, but you can not hold drills chuck. The way the impact creates the torque is through the impacts. I was amazed when I used the first impact for assembly. The moment the screw got a bit tighter is started impacted. Now we are using cordless drills for assembly and torque the hand - much faster and much quieter.

Question 2 - I have read that it is possible to remove one of the cross members to improve access to the central components like driveshaft or exhaust.  Is this part removed before the car is raised or after?

Yes it is possible. The Slave site cross bar is removable if needed. Most likely you want to have this. So far only one person has removed it and he stated that really was not necessary - see also Ron Browns statement on previous GroupBuy - last page. The procedure is not in the manual, but the bar has to be removed before the car is lifted. Basically you position the lift where you need it, lift just a bit (1 to 2") to relief the pressure on the rolling casters, which are mounted to the Cross bars, then remove the cross bar and lift the vehicle.

I am not sure wheree to lift my 93 Miata. There are two areas to lift, under the doors and it also has a frame in the middle. What is the best way to lift it. I use the car on the track

There are 3 more days left to closing of the group buy. If anyone is interested we will honor the 6 to 11 price of $1,595 + $150 for s&h and we will release 7 units for imidiate delivery. Just contact us direct at info@ezcarlift.com or 800-392-2754 (800-ez car lift) for payment etc.

If you're considering this lift, go for it!  I received mine a couple of weeks ago, just in time for my new suprcharger install. My M3 was raised to the 26" limit and stayed there for over a week, without issue. I was able to easily raise and lower the car for different parts of the install. And my creeper finally came into full use!! I wound up running new fuel lines, a meth line, inline fuel pump and filter. I really don't think I would have even tried the install without this lift. Doing all that work with it just lifted on stands would have been very unsettling.

I used a Milwaukee 8v, 0-850 rpm drill with this. It's got a lot of torque, where my craftsmen drill just kept copping out. And Boytcho (creator of lift) was available even on the weekend to answer technical questions about the type of drill to use and go over the lift. He gets an A+ for customer service and another A+ for a truly awesome product!

Here's a quick link to my install. Everything was done with the car on this lift. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=294742